I1 Display Pro Software For Mac

Aug 19, 2011  In addition, Category (b) and (c) instruments CANNOT be used with the i1 Profiler software (or other X-Rite software); if you want to use i1 Profiler, you need to buy a retail i1 Display Pro from X-Rite. A Clarification from X-Rite. X-Rite Product Manager Steve Rankin posted the following on the ColorSync list Aug 19, 2011. Jun 08, 2017  Here's how the i1 Display Pro performs. The i1Profiler software is compatible with Windows and Mac. The colorimeter works with desktop and laptop displays as well as projectors. What’s in the Box. In addition to the colorimeter sensor, with an integrated USB cable, there’s a quick start guide and a DVD-ROM with the i1Profiler software.

1. I1 Display Pro Software For Mac Download
2. I1 Display Pro Software For Mac Free
3. X-rite I1 Display Pro Software Mac

This tutorial discusses using the X-Rite i1Display Pro to calibrate screens which have no adjustability other than their brightness. This includes all Mac screens, and all laptops. It might also include cheap desktop screens with no buttons or menus to control their colour; and the new breed of all-in-one PCs that try to look like iMacs.

Before you begin, please make sure you’ve read this article.

(As time goes by, X-Rite updates their software regularly, so some of the screenshots on this page might be slightly different to your version. It shouldn’t prevent you following the instructions, but please write to me if there is a glaring discrepancy that I need to update.)

Part 1: Prepare and Install

Warm up

Make sure your screen has been turned on for at least half an hour before starting calibration.

Check the site

I can almost guarantee that the disk that came with your device is out of date. So don’t even bother opening it – just go straight to the X-Rite site and grab the latest version from the “Software Downloads” section.

Install

Don’t plug in the device yet. Install the software, and restart your computer if it asks you to.

Connect

Now you can plug the device into your USB port, let it install itself, then launch the i1Profiler software.

Part 2: Preferences

When you launch the program, you’ll be greeted by this screen:

The first thing to do is glance down at the bottom right-hand corner and make sure the “Check for update” is turned on.

If it’s not turned on (which is unlikely), just expand that section and check the checkbox:

X-Rite tend to update their software regularly, so it’s good to have the automatic updating turned on.

Next, change from “Basic” to “Advanced”:

Then, on the left-hand side, press “Profiling” to commence:

Part 3: Targets

The next screen you’ll see is the “Display Settings” page.

Display and technology type

At this point, you might need to dig around in your filing cabinet to consult the invoice or paperwork that came with your computer, to find out whether you have an LED screen or not. X-Rite told me that their software sometimes knows what screen type you have, but it doesn’t always get it right (in fact, it got it wrong for me when recording this tutorial) so always check for yourself, and be sure you’ve made the best selection from this list:

• Generic: Choose this one if you really don’t know what type of display you have. Needless to say, this is not preferable.
• CCFL: This basically means ” not LED”. The older your screen is, the more chance it’s CCFL. But since 2012 or so, most new screens have been White LED.
• Wide Gamut CCFL: Once again, if your screen is older, and if it was very expensive at the time, it might be wide-gamut CCFL. But these screens are somewhat uncommon now.
  (Please don’t mix up wide gamut with wide format. Wide format screens are … y’know, wide. 16:9 shape, or whatever. “Wide Gamut” refers to the range of colours they can show. If the salesman boasted to you about a “110% gamut” or “Adobe RGB gamut” screen, it means wide-gamut.)
• White LED: This is the most common type of modern screens. If you know your screen is LED, it’s almost certainly white LED.
• RGB LED / OLED / Plasma / GB-LED: I’m not aware of many monitors using these technologies right now, but again, check your screen’s specs carefully.
• Projector: This tutorial doesn’t cover projector calibration, sorry.

White Point

By default this will be on D65, but change it to Native:

Luminance

This is a setting that might take a few attempts to get right. I can’t tell you exactly what setting will suit you best, but I can tell you that the default setting of 120 is invariably too high.

I recommend choosing 100 the first time you calibrate.

After the calibration is complete, the first thing you’ll do is compare your prints, at which point you might find a lower white luminance is necessary. More discussion about this later.

Other options

Leave the remaining four options as shown here – Standard (2.2), Native, unchecked, unchecked:

Press “Next” to continue:

Default Profile Settings

These defaults are ok, except for the Profile Version. Version 4 (the default) is still a bit flaky, so change it to Version 2 instead:

Default Patch Set

This one is up to you, really. The small set gives the quickest calibration, the large set gives the most accurate profile. Choose your number of patches based on (a) how much of a hurry you’re in, and (b) how much of a colour nerd you are.

Default Measurement

Even though Automatic Display Control sounds great, it too is flaky in my experience. I tend to turn it off, and turn on the second checkbox to allow me manual adjustment:

Start Measurement

The interface is sadly vague at this point, and it’s too easy to casually hit “Next” and completely skip the actual calibration process. Make sure you press “Start Measurement”:

Part 4: Lights out

At this point, if you haven’t already, turn off the lights or pull the blinds, or whatever. Strictly speaking, the surrounding light shouldn’t matter, but it can’t hurt to be extra safe.

Part 5: Calibration

The software will guide you through the next couple of steps. It will tell you to turn the device’s cover around, tilt your screen back, and position the device carefully on the screen.

Once you’ve followed the instructions, and pressed “Next” a couple of times, you’ll get to this screen:

The instructions here are poorly-written, but logic will guide you.

Step 1 tells you to hang your device on the screen, which you should have already done, and press Next, which you shouldn’t do until after steps 2 and 3, of course.

Step 2 doesn’t apply to your screen, so ignore it.

Step 3 lets you tell the program what controls your screen has, and Brightness is the only one you need to select, as I’ve shown in the screenshot.

The brightness adjustment step

The screen will flash a few times as the i1 takes some initial readings. Then it will pause and wait for you to adjust your screen’s brightness to get as close as possible to the White Luminance target you specified.

It’s very simple and logical. The goal is to get the yellow bar in the green zone. Just increase or decrease your screen’s brightness setting to get as close as possible to the target:

You can probably adjust your screen’s brightness using F keys on your keyboard. In some cases, you’ll need to use the slider in the Display control panel, and toggle back and forth between the control panel and the i1 program. Needless to say, the F key option is easier.

Don’t be surprised if you can’t achieve the exact luminance target. In fact, it’s quite unusual if you can. Near enough is good enough. During my calibration, the closest I could get was 103, which is a perfectly acceptable margin of error:

If you can’t get it right on the money, I find it’s better to err slightly on the low side, rather than the high side.

If you can’t get your screen’s brightness low enough (it’s rare, but it happens) then just take it as low as it can go.

Press “Next” to continue.

The colour readings

For a few minutes, the device will read a range of colours:

NOTE: Please wiggle your mouse every minute or so during this period. It’s probably completely unnecessary, but do it anyway. The last thing you need is for your screen to dim itself from lack of activity – that throws the whole calibration into a cocked hat, believe me. Of course, don’t let the mouse pointer go underneath the device – just keep it at the side.

Once the i1 has taken all its measurements it will return to the Instructions Page, at which point you can remove the device from the screen and turn its cover back into place, then press “Next” …

There is obviously something dodgy within my new NBN router/modem and the way it talks to my iMac. So I connected to the VPN once more and then it was able to communicate!So. It doesn't happen on my husband's Windows PC. He is able to both print and scan over the network without having to connect to a VPN and has no troubles with the printer working at all. It's allowing access to print, but not to scan. Mac epson scanner xp 320 app.

… and “Next” again.

Part 6: Save the profile

Name it

By default, the X-Rite software will try to give your profile a gibberish name involving the model of your screen, and maybe the date. Personally, I prefer to name the profile by the targets I used:

This way, I don’t have to scratch my head each month, trying to remember what targets I calibrated to last time. It’s right there in the profile name. And each time I recalibrate, I just over-write the old profile with the same profile name, so I don’t end up with a string of useless old profiles in my system.

If the software detects multiple user profiles on your operating system, it will give you the option of “User Level” or “System Level”. I can’t imagine a circumstance where you’d want to restrict the profile to just one user, to keep this on System Level if it gives you the option.

Finally, set the reminder to 4 weeks:

If your screen is old and failing, or if you’re simply an incurable geek, you can set a shorter recalibration period. But for most of us, 4 weeks is fine.

Keep this part turned off:

Create and save profile

Again, not very intuitive interface design by X-Rite, but the next step is to click this button:

Part 7: Lights up

Turn your lights back on, or open the blinds, or whatever.

Part 8: Evaluate the profile

Once you’ve saved the profile, the software gives you some results screens to evaluate. This is the most important one:

The White Point target is of most interest. I’ve instructed you to calibrate to the “Native” white temperature target, because that’s the easiest for both you and your screen. However, right up until this point, we don’t know what the native temperature of your screen actually is.

6500K is the common standard, and 500K either side of that is perfectly acceptable to all but the biggest nerds. You can see in the above screenshot that the native temperature of my (not very fancy) screen is 6258K, which is an excellent result – better than I expected, to be honest.

You’ll also notice that the final luminance result was 99, even though it read 103 during the process. Small disparities like that are very common, and nothing to be worried about.

Make a note of your resultant white point and luminance, because I’ll discuss these results further, if necessary, in the Troubleshooting section further down the page.

There’s also a 2D graph which can be of interest:

Generally, the better the screen, the straighter and closer together those lines will be. As I said, my screen isn’t a particularly good one, so the lines are all over the place.

Special note

If you’re having some trouble with your calibration, I encourage you to take screen captures of the two results screens I’ve just shown you above and include these in your a question on the forum.

Part 9: The comparison

Now that the calibration is finished, it’s time to check the results, by comparing some prints. I explained this process on this page.

If you are satisfied that you have an acceptable match, then your work is done. You may begin editing, or go and have a beer, or something.

Part 10: Troubleshooting

Brightness

If you find that your screen is brighter than your prints, then run the calibration process again, with a lower White Luminance target. For example, if you calibrated to 100 the first time, and you think it’s a little too bright, calibrate to 90 next time. Of course, if the difference is strong, then you’d choose 80 instead.

Conversely, if your screen is darker than your prints, then recalibrate to a higher luminance target.

Note: If you find that you need a target lower than 80, or higher than 120, I encourage you to make a frank assessment of the light in which you work, and decide if it’s truly suitable for imaging.

Colour

If you are unhappy with the colour of your calibrated screen … well, your screen itself doesn’t give you any flexibility, so we need to look to the calibrator instead.

But first, ask yourself if your calibration was as good as it could be. Was the device sitting perfectly flat against the screen? Was there too much light glaring on the screen? Was there any risk that the screen might have dimmed during calibration? If there’s any doubt in your mind about those questions, try a plain (careful!) recalibration.

Furthermore, be brutally honest with yourself – is your room lighting ok? The MOST common cause of calibration issues is not the screen or the calibrator, it’s the light in your room. A lot of light bulbs in a lot of homes/offices are too yellow.

At this point, please let me reiterate – have some tolerance. Calibration isn’t some kind of magic. It can never make ink on paper exactly match light coming from a screen. “Acceptably close” is what we’re aiming for.

White point targets

If plain recalibration isn’t necessary, or doesn’t work, then you have to explore the only available avenue of flexibility – the white temperature targets.

Remember how we chose “Native” the first time? Well, now it’s time to try the other options.

Did you take note of your screen’s native white point? If you feel your screen is too warm, try one of the targets which is higher than your screen’s native. Or, if you think your screen is too cool, try one of the lower targets.

For example, my screen’s native temperature was 6258K. If I wanted a cooler result, I could try 6500K (“D65”) or even 7500K (“D75”). If I wanted a warmer result, I would try D55 or D50.

If you want even more fine-tuning, choose “Daylight Temperature”, which will give you a slider for even more careful targeting. But I hope it won’t come to that for you.

I won’t lie to you – this could take a while. You might need to try calibrating a number of times before you find the best target.

Too pink or too green

Hopefully the above steps will give you a happy result. But maybe even when the warmth of your screen is just right, there will be a lingering problem with pinkness or greenness. This problem is less common, and it’s darn fiddly to overcome. For some reason, all the standard calibration settings only concentrate on the warm/cool axis. When you examine the presets, you’ll see they all follow a straight line between warm and cool:

To take control over a green or pink problem with your screen, you have to manually choose specific target co-ordinates.

You probably haven’t paid much attention before now, but each calibration target has its own X and Y co-ordinates:

Write down the co-ordinates of the White Point preset that has (so far) got you the closest to a satisfactory print match. For me, it’s D65, so I’ll jot those down:

Then choose “xy…” from the menu:

And you’ll see it gives you precise control over the co-ordinates:

It’s time for you to tweak the numbers (then recalibrate to check the results).

WARNING: I’ve found that a little goes a long way. Don’t make big adjustments, or your calibration will be outrageous!!! Generally 0.005 or 0.01 at a time is enough.

In my case, I needed my screen to be a little pinker, so I lowered the Y value and raised the X value slightly.

Whatever values you choose to try, make sure you write them down!

Go ahead and run the whole calibration process again with your new targets. Then compare to prints and see how you went. It’s very likely that you’ll need to do this a few times before you get it right. When you’re finally happy, make sure you write down your X and Y values somewhere permanent! You’ll need them again next month.

Part 11: If all else fails

If, after numerous calibration attempts, you can’t get a result you like, you have three options:

Contact X-Rite

They’re the experts, after all. See if they have a solution for you. Maybe you’ve got some kind of graphics card glitch, or something.

Lower your expectations

Choose the best calibration, and live with it.

New screen

If you’re working on a laptop, consider buying a good external monitor to run off it. General info about monitors here.

Part 11: Regular recalibration

After one month has passed, you’ll get the reminder to recalibrate.

When you launch the software, it will check for updates, and notify you if there’s a newer version of the software available.

Then, go ahead and run the calibration process as normal. I assure you that subsequent recalibrations will be faster and easier than the first time.

If you have a question about this article, please visit me at Ask Damien.

Figure 1

There’s a new pro-grade screen calibration kid on the block, and his name isi1Display Pro. What’s that you say –You already own either a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer? Maybe so, but possibly it’s also time for an upgrade. Also, could be that if you are a Mac user and have just upgraded to Lion (OS 10.7) , you are going tohave toupgrade.

Thei1Display Prois both a new hardware device and also comes bundled with new profiling and calibration software. It is a more sophisticated piece of hardware than the previousi1 Displayand i1Display 2puck-shaped colorimeters from Gretag Macbeth and X-Rite. Thei1Profilersoftware that comes with it is also new. The i1 Display Prowithi1Profilersells for about $250at B&H.

Sidebar: X-Rite has some of the most confusing naming conventions of any company. I know that it can make figuring out what a product is and what it does difficult. A visit to their web sitewill help clarify things (but only a bit).

A Mac Digression

This is a good time to mention the Mac / Lion issue. If you have any previous device that usesi1Matchsoftware (including the expensivei1Prospectro) you will find that it doesn’t work under Lion. OS X Lion no longer includes “Rosetta” technology that emulates the PowerPC processor of pre-Intel Macs. Rather than re-writei1March, X-Riterequires that users upgrade to their new software,i1Profiler.

Because this is an expensive upgrade, what I have decided to do is leave one of my older Macs (a 27″ iMac) running Snow Leopard, and thus able to still run legacy software that requires Rosetta. This includesi1Match,and means that I can continue to use myi1Prospectrophotometer for print profiling. This iMac also serves as a print server in my studio, and since I also have some legacy scanners and other devices attached, this is a worthwhile solution.

I used to use thei1Prospectro for projector profiling when I traveled, and when teaching, but since (as we’ll see in a minute) the newi1Display Prois capable of projector profiling (and is much smaller and lighter for travel than the whole i1Pro spectro kit), this is a far better solution – at least for me.

You can read more about X-Rite’s Mac Lion upgrade programhere.

UPDATE: We have just learned that there will be a FREE update for all i1Display 2 and i1Display LT owners in September.

The Hardware

Figure 2

The new colorimeter is very light-weight with an elegant simplicity to it. The black plastic U-shaped part contains a diffusion filter which is used when ambient light is measured. It rotates up to 180 degrees for this purpose. It also can be rotated about 90 degrees so that it becomes a stand for the device when profiling a projector. There is also a quarter/20 tripod thread on the unit’s base so that it can be mounted on a tripod head for this purpose.

There is a permanently attached USB cable which has a sliding counterweight attached. This allows the device to be hung over the edge of a monitor without slipping downward. There is an LED which flashes when the device is plugged in and operational.

It is worth commenting that this is the first device from X-Rite that is specifically designed for use with contemporary LCD and LED monitors. CRTs are gone from the scene. If you are still using a CRT, even a top model like aSony Artisan, and if you’ve been using it for more than about three years, its salad days are now behind it, and you should be considering a new high-end monitor such as one of theNECorEizomodels designed specifically for imaging pros.

Thei1 Display Pro has the ability to measure the ambient light and adjust the calibration appropriately. This can be worthwhile. The device can also be left plugged in so that it continuously adjust your monitor depending on changing light conditions. But, this is more than likely going to degrade performance. For critical work you’ll likely want to set your working environment optimally, though I can see this being useful for when one is working with a laptop in changing environments.

There is a “Flare” measurement capability, which I haven’t seen elsewhere before. You hold the device about 12 inches from the screen so that it can measure not just the light being transmitted by the screen, but also any light that is being reflected by the screen. I presume that there is then some attempt to compensate for this, though I did no rigorous testing of this feature.

100 Degrees in the Shade. Clearview, Ontario. July, 2011

Fuji X100 @ ISO 200

Sidebar: If you have ai1Proor other spectrophotometer you may ask yourself – why bother getting ani1Display Procolorimeter? A spectrophotometer is a more sophisticated instrument, is it not? Well, yes and no.

In speaking to some experts in the field what I have discovered is that a spectro is not as sensitive at lower luminance levels as is a colorimeter. This means less accurate profiling of quarter tones and image shadow areas on-screen. So, for those that have a monitor with decent dark tone performance, a colorimeter like thei1Display Promakes a lot of sense, even if you already own ani1Prodevice.

X-Rite claims that thei1Display Prois 5X faster than their previous model. I can believe it. A basic screen profile takes just a couple of minutes. They also claim that the unit incorporates a new optical design that ensures greater accuracy and repeatability.

If your monitor incorporate ADC (Automatic Display Control) then the i1Display Promay be able to set all of the displays hardware settings automatically (luminance, contrast and colour temperature).

One final point on the hardware side – the i1Display Prois both small and light, which if you’re the type of person that gives presentations using other people’s screens and projectors, will allow you to profile these quickly without hassle.

The Software

Figure 3

The second part of the package is thei1Profilersoftware. The version that is provided with thei1Display Pro is able to profile displays and projectors. It can be further enabled to profile printers using ani1Prospectro, but this entails purchasing an expanded license.

There are two modes when display profiling, Basic and Advanced. Basic is a quick and efficient plug-and-play mode, that will do an adequate job, but I am presuming that the user of this device will be interested in a higher level of functionality and will therefore use Advanced mode.

X-Rite has an8 minute Flash videoavailable which describes how to use Advanced mode, so it would be redundant for me to go into too much detail here. But, as you see in the screen grab above (Fig. 3) there is a strip along the bottom of the screen that directs you through the steps necessary to profile your display.

You are able to set specifics about your monitor, desired profile settings, and how many patches you want to measure; 119, 220, or 478. The only downside of using the largest patch set is that it takes longer to profile, which stills runs under 10 minutes, so isn’t that onerous. It should, in theory at least, produce a more accurate and smoother profile.

There are a host of specialized targets available, including patches from the automatically installed Pantone spot colours. You can adjust brightness and contrast manually, or, as previously mentioned, if your display offers ADC these can be set optimally, automatically.

Once the profiling run is completed (2 – 8 minutes, depending on the patch size) you can save the profile with a name of your choice. The profile is then automatically installed in the appropriate System directory. If you have dual monitors they can be profiled separately with separate profiles (of course). There are a couple of report charts and graphs available, as seen in Fig 4 and 5 above.

Figure 6

There are also a number of built-in images of different types that you can display at this point with aBeforeandAftertoggle which shows the image with and without the new profile just made.

Figure 7

For diehard colour geeks (as opposed to just photographers and graphics professionals looking for a properly calibrated and profiled monitor), there is a reporting module available, as seen in Fig. 7 above. A number of on-screen reference charts are available for measurement.

Use With Other Software

One of the most frequently asked questions on Forums about the new i1Display Pro is – can it be used with other software. There has not been much clarity on this until mi-August, just prior to the first publication of this report, when the following information was received fromThe BabelColor Company.

My advise therefore is that if you prefer to use other third-party monitor profiling software with thei1Display Pro, check with that company first for their current status before purchasing.

From: The BabelColor Company

This model replaces the i1 Display2. As with the i1 Display2, there are three Categories of the i1 Display Pro available:

Category (a)- The instruments sold by X-Rite under the X-Rite name (also called the retail version). In the past, for the older i1 display2, the SDK could be used for instruments in this category; this is NOT possible with the SDK of the i1 Display Pro.

Category (b)- The instruments sold by a third party (called Original Equipment Manufacturer, or OEM). The SDK could, and can still be used for instruments in this category. However, in the past, such instruments had the same communication interface specifications as the X-Rite retail model; this is not the case anymore.

Category (c)- The instruments sold by an OEM, which have communication interface specifications DIFFERENT from the Category (b) model. The SDK cannot be used to communicate with those instruments.

For example, the i1 Display2 bundled with many NEC monitors, also called the MDSVSENSOR2, is a Category (b) model while the i1 Display2 bundled with some HP DreamColor monitors is a Category (c) model (HP DreamColor Advanced Profiling Solution, KZ300AA).

(Please note that while the NEC MDSVSENSOR2 has the same communication interface as the standard i1 Display2, it has a different set of sensor filters which is better adapted to the wide gamut primaries of the NEC monitors it is offered with.)

With the older i1 Display2, the X-Rite SDK could be used with the Category (a) and (b) instruments; this explains, for instance, why PatchTool can be used with the X-Rite i1 Display2 and the NEC i1 MDSVSENSOR2, but not with the HP DreamColor i1 Display2.

With the new X-Rite policies, the i1 Display Pro sold by X-Rite can ONLY be used with i1 Profiler; it CANNOT be used with the i1 Display Pro SDK. This means that BabelColor, and other third party developers, cannot support this instrument. Third party developers can only support the Category (b) and (c) instruments (Category (c) instruments will also require a separate agreement between the third-party developer and the licensed OEM). In addition, Category (b) and (c) instruments CANNOT be used with the i1 Profiler software (or other X-Rite software); if you want to use i1 Profiler, you need to buy a retail i1 Display Pro from X-Rite.

A Clarification from X-Rite

X-Rite Product Manager Steve Rankin posted the following on the ColorSync list Aug 19, 2011.

As the product manager for our Display Solutions at X-Rite, let me try to clarify a few things regarding OEM and 3rd party developer support for our new i1D3 based colorimeters. There seems to be lot’s of confusion here. First and foremost, X-Rite absolutely does allow OEMs and 3rd party developers access to our i1Display Pro retail instruments. Karl Koch already mentioned it here on the ColorSync List that BasICColor will support our retail product and I now have permission from Eizo to announce that a soon to be released version of ColorNavigator software will also support our retail i1Display Pro device. In addition, while I cannot mention their names, I can tell you that there are more OEMs & developers currently working on integrating our channel device into their software solutions. So, for any other OEMs or third party developers that wish to also support our retail i1Display Pro device, please contact devsupport@xrite.com and ask for our “i1Display Pro License Request Form”. Second, regarding support of OEM versions of i1D3, this is not an X-Rite issue at all. Any software developer who wishes to support an OEM version of the i1D3 device must contact and obtain this ability from that OEM. I hope this clarifies things for all.

The Farm Next Door. Clearview, Ontario. August, 2011

Sony HX9V @ ISO 160

I1 Display Pro Software For Mac Download

The new i1Display Profrom X-Rite meets the needs of photographers who use contemporary mid to high end monitors for demanding image processing and review. It can be run in an almost totally automated mode, and also set manually by those who know what they’re doing and need a particular precise setting.

To my eye the accuracy of the results are as good if not better than those from any previous display profiling device and software combo that I’ve used, including thei1Proandi1Match. The i1Profiler software appears a bit rough around the edges in terms of user interface, though it seems completely robust technically. V1.1.1 was reviewed.

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I1 Display Pro Software For Mac Free

If you’re looking to either upgrade your display profiler or even are buying a new one for the first time, or you are a Mac / Lion upgrader who has to now upgrade his profiling software, the X-Rite i1Display Proappears to be a solid device and decent value for the money.

X-rite I1 Display Pro Software Mac

August, 2011